In this tutorial, I explain how to create a fully functional, boned and tabbed Elizabethan-style conical corset. The pattern shown is not 100% historically accurate, but the shape is based on one existent historic corset, and is consistent with modern re-enactment. The corset shown is constructed with two core layers of 100% cotton duck fabric, with a cover and lining of 100% cotton denim twill. Any sturdy canvas may be used, including linen and linen blends, or modern corset coutil can be used. Cover material can be anything that is non-stretch, although I strongly recommend natural fibers for durability and breathability, especially if the corset is to be used for underwear rather than outerwear.
There are some places in the corset where the fabric is 16 and even 18 layers thick. Keep this in mind when choosing your cover fabric. The duck/twill combination I use is extremely thick in a couple places, and some home machines will not be able to sew through all the layers.
The Elizabethan Costuming Page includes a custom corset pattern generator, which you can use to create a pattern to the desired measurements. I have not used it myself, but it seems to work well. In the future, I intend to write a guide to drafting an Elizabethan corset and post it here.
Part 1 instructs on the assembly of the corset. Part 2 instructs on boning and finishing the corset.
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Tabs
Patterns generated by the above tool do not include tabs. To create the tabs, decide how long you want each of your tabs to be and how wide, and then measure along the bottom of the corset from the back edge to the strong downward curve and cut as many tabs as you need to fill that space. The width of each tab is usually related to the type and width of boning being used, so the boning will optimally fit. My tabs, after construction, are just a bit wider than 1.5″, which gives me room for side seams, two 1/4″ wide spring steel flat bones, and space in between that is just larger than a 1/2″ bone. Length of tabs is arbitrary. I use 2″ long tabs.
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